supagog (September 5, 2008 at 4:23 am)

does anybody know if these 2 guys are gay?

animes25 (August 18, 2008 at 10:34 am)

cool, now make me a pentium 4, with your inject :D

avcomth (August 4, 2008 at 6:00 pm)

Luckily, in the city where I lived, there are shops that will do this for ya. They will even accept single order.

hurjaukko (July 27, 2008 at 5:23 am)

the ethcant likes to be warm , use an aquarium heater, and also use an aquarium bubler to create agitation. worked well when I was taught to do this with photo positive etching.

Super32Nova (July 23, 2008 at 12:09 am)

NEVERMIND :D

Super32Nova (July 23, 2008 at 12:08 am)

Well, what my theory is, is that when the other things like, chips, transistors, resistors, diodes, and all the other stuff would just draw the current :)

TerminalJack505 (July 19, 2008 at 9:46 pm)

The board itself is actually fiberglass. The copper is just a thin layer on one or both sides of the fiberglass. The etchant removes just the exposed copper leaving traces and the fiberglass.

zachbmth (July 18, 2008 at 10:01 pm)

i don't understandthe whole board is copperthe etched part is copperwouldn't the current be just disperesed through the whole copper board? why would it choose to follow the etching?

thesniffysniffy (July 17, 2008 at 2:17 pm)

haha

TerminalJack505 (July 14, 2008 at 3:20 am)

I've always used 1/2 ounce copper boards. The thinner the copper, the quicker the etching time. The less etching time, the less chemicals. You'll have less under-cutting as well.So far as board thickness, 32 mil (.032 inches) boards are typical. 16 mil boards are thin enough that they will easily flex. (Copy/printer paper is about 3.5 mils thick by comparison.)I've epoxied two 16 mil boards back-to-back to create double sided boards before. I don't use that method any more, however.